Uroplatus Sameiti originate from Nosy Boraha Island, Eastern rain forest in Madagascar. They’re native to a very damp climate. Uroplatus Sameiti were once thought to be Uroplatus Sikorae Sameiti. They were recently classified as their own species as opposed to being a sub species of Sikorae. We have the ‘large’ variation of Sameiti, reaching a total length of 9″ (typically in males). The average length of male sameiti are: 8″-9″ and females: 7″-8″ snout to vent. Uroplatus Sameiti live up to 3-5 years in the wild and 10-15 years in captivity if conditions are right.
Sameiti are a arboreal nocturnal species. A pair of adult Sameiti can be kept in an 18″x 18″x 24″ and a trio can be housed in a 32″x 16″x 32″ naturalistic enclosure. Lots of climbing branches can be achieved with bendy vines (from pet stores), branches and cork bark and cork bark rounds. Live plants should be a must. You can use: orchids, pothos, bromeliads, small ficus, money trees, tropical palms and live moss. Vertical branches are essential as this species sleeps on branches (choose branches that match your gecko, maple and oak best suites this) vertically.
Substrate should start with large clay balls at the bottom, then peat moss tropical soil (from pet store) mix, and dead leaves on top (oak leaves). Live sphagnum moss may be used.
Unlike Uroplatus Sikorae, Sameiti are said enjoy more consistent warmer temperatures. 77°F-82°F (25°C-28°C) is a general range (I use these as summer temps, however ‘The Genus Uroplatus’ book says to keep these temps consistent for this species) with a slight night-time temp drop. I have kept Sameiti at an average of low 70°F’s during the winter with a night drop of 5-10° with no ill effects.
Humidity and Water:
A small water fountain (reptile safe) is said to be beneficial for humidity and thirst. Just be sure to keep fountain water clean from gecko poops. Cold (during summer, room temp during winter) misting should be achieved twice daily. Humidity should be an average 80%.
Food and Supplementing:
Sameiti are very enthusiastic feeders, watch your fingers if you’re hand feeding. They will happily accept anything that is small enough and moves in my experience. Here’s what you should offer: Dubia roaches (if allowed in your area), crickets, wax worms, wax moths, butter worms, silk worms, hornworms, snails and black soldier fly and their larvae. Sameiti should be offered reasonable sized food items (4-6) every 2 days.
Supplementing is unclear in the ‘Uroplatus handbook’. I supplement Ca + herp vitamins weekly. One week Ca will have D3, the other week I will use Ca WITHOUT D3. Too much vitamin D3 (many calcium supplements are D3 additive happy) may lead to Metabolic Bone Disease.
Breeding occurs when temperatures rise as well as humidity. Copulation can last 2 hours. Females will lay 3-5 clutches (2 eggs each) each season. Female Sameiti, like many other gecko species, have the ability to be fertilized for several clutches after one breeding. It’s important to supplement with calcium prior and after egg laying. Females will lay eggs at the base of a ‘tree’ or vertical branch, under leaf litter or under a plant near a cork round. Females have been said to roll the eggs in the soil to camouflage eggs with minerals or to leave the pearly white eggs exposed.
Eggs should be half buried in damp incubation medium (perlite, clay medium, sphagnum moss mix) with wet incubation medium near the egg, not directly on the egg. Humidity should be a consistent 85%-95%. Condensation must be avoided as water drops can be damaging to the eggs. Incubation temps should be 72°F-78°F ( 22°C-25°C). Incubation should take 75-90 days if incubating is a success.
Hatchlings should be kept in an 8″x 8″x 12″h critter keeper and kept the same as adults. It is advised against offering any herp vitamins for the first 3 months of the hatchlings life. Offer high calcium foods, such as small digestible snails, black soldier fly larvae (cut in half so gecko to fully digest) and silkworms.